How Often Should We Bath Our Dog?

There is no strict recommendation on how often we need to bathe our dog. Actually bathing frequency is depend on the dog if it need to take a bath or not, usually it depend on the breed and what type of activities the dog is involved in. Also some factor like when your dog is really dirty, when it need a flea bath and if the smell is not good for your nose.

Most dogs usually never really require a bath. Baths can be given as often as is necessary, although regular grooming, by way of combing and brushing, is often all that is required. Two or three baths a month is not considered excessive. If a dog is bathed too often the skin will be stripped of its natural, protective oils. This will result in dry itchy skin, which will cause your dog to scratch, further irritating the already sensitive skin. If you need to bathe your dog more frequently make sure to use a pet shampoo that will also moisturize your dog’s skin. You may also want to follow up with an after bath pet coat conditioner specifically formulated for dry skin.

Dog skin is different from human skin because dog skin is thinner and has no sweat glands. Also it has a different pH compared to human skin, and as such, a pet’s skin is much more sensitive than human skin. Human shampoo should never be used on dogs and heavily perfumed shampoos should also be avoided, since they may cause an allergic reaction. For much better grooming result consult your veterinarian, he/she can advise you on which shampoo is ideal for your pet.

How to Bathe a Cat

Even though they mostly keep themselves clean, most cats need a bath every now and then. Everyone knows that cats hate getting wet. Cats generally keep themselves clean, and therefore should not be bathed any more often than is absolutely necessary. But they sometimes get especially dirty, get bombarded by fleas or ticks, or get into substances that are toxic or otherwise harmful. On such occasions, it is a good idea to bathe your cat. Here's how to keep your feline fresh and lovely as painlessly as possible!

Steps

1. Decide, whether your cat really needs a bath. There may be other ways to clean your cat, such as brushing the cat, combing or even rubbing it down with a cloth.
2. 

   Wear appropriate clothing.
   Wear appropriate clothing. Not only is it important to wash your cat but it is important to be safe from any possible scratches, minor or major. A jumper or a long-sleeved shirt must be worn so that your cat has no bare skin to scratch. If you don't have one, you could wear long-sleeved gloves. It is also a good idea to wear clothing that isn't new.
3. Get at least two people involved in washing your cat, especially if your cat is rather strong and can kick and wriggle its way out of your hands. One person should hold all four legs and hold the cat's jaw so it can't open its mouth to bite you, but be sure you don't hold it really tight so it can't breathe. Hold your cat firmly so it cannot wriggle out from your grip.
4. Fill the tub with no more than 4-5 inches deep with warm water (depends on size of the animal). Try to fill the tub before bringing your cat into the bathroom, since some cats can be unnerved by running water.
5. Fill a bucket or two with extra water for rinsing the cat, but this is optional. This is so you don't need to run more water during the bath, which might frighten your cat.
6. Put a rubber mat in the tub or use a towel so the cat has a comfortable footing.
7. Have shampoo for your cat (you may need to go to a vet to get some), but if you don't have a lot of money you could use baby shampoo, flea shampoo or a mild shampoo and conditioner. Do not use normal shampoo, for it may be toxic to the cat. You may also want to have a small wash cloth ready. Have two towels at hand for drying your cat.
8. Pre-treat any oily stains. Cats stained with something greasy may be very difficult to clean with mere shampoo and water alone. A cat smeared with engine or axle grease, motor oil, flypaper goo, or even crisco-based cake frosting can be helped by massaging a runny edible oil into the stained area before shampooing. Once the stain has been "melted" in this way, it will lift easily with shampoo.
   • Wear gloves, and use a low-melting point edible oil such as softened butter, bacon grease, or vegetable oil. Spoon or dribble it directly onto the affected area. Do not use any water. Massage the fur gently between your fingers until the stain appears to have blended with the oil. Blot away excess with a dry washcloth.
   • For severely stained cats, you may want to repeat the process, to dilute the foreign substance as much as possible.
   • Finish by massaging some shampoo directly into the oily patch on your cat.
9. Comb the fur thoroughly before you put the cat in the water if it is long-haired or if it has burrs. Remove knots and tangles before wetting the fur, or the task will be next to impossible.
10. Use a calm, quiet voice while washing your cat and keep a good grip on the neck or shoulders. Sometimes cats, obviously, will try to get out of the tub. If they prefer to have only two of their feet in the water, face them toward the back of the tub and let them stand on two feet.
11. 

    Soak the cat from the neck down, using a wash cloth.
    Soak the cat from the neck down, using a wash cloth. Use a little bit of shampoo and with the water, wash your cat's neck, body, legs, belly and tail. Be sure to not get shampoo in their eyes, nose, mouth, or ears.
12. 

    Rinse thoroughly with the water in the tub, then drain the tub and rinse two more times with water from the bucket or warm water from the tap.
    Rinse thoroughly with the water in the tub, then drain the tub and rinse two more times with water from the bucket or warm water from the tap. It is essential that you remove all the soap from the coat.
13. 
    Blot. Let the water drip from the cat while gently pressing as much water as you can from the fur before you wrap your cat in the towel. Rub gently with one towel. When the first towel gets too wet to be effective, switch to another dry towel. Don't stop until the cat is just damp. Try warming the towels in the dryer first, as many cats find this comforting.
14. Finish drying:
    • 

      Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts.
      Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts. They will appreciate a heat source (space heater or warm air vent) and a dry towel to sit on.
    • With long-haired cats, you will have to use a comb and more towels. Long hairs mat more easily when wet, so you may wish to comb the coat until it is completely dry.
15. Reward your cat. Give him/her their favorite canned food or catnip or treats, and he/she will come to realize that there is a good side to being bathed.

Rabies and Your Dog

Rabies is a serious viral disease seen in mammals that adversely affects the central nervous system, leading to death. Rabies is a zoonotic disease that is typically transmitted through bites from infected animals. The majority of reported cases involve wild animals like bats, raccoons and skunks, but domesticated animals like dogs and cats are also at risk. Humans are equally susceptible to the rabies virus if bitten by an infected animal. Once the symptoms have appeared, Rabies is nearly always fatal. Death usually occurs less than a week after the onset of signs.

Rabies Transmission:

The rabies virus is transmitted through the saliva of an infected mammal, or host. Contact with the eyes, nose or mouth can technically pass on the virus, but these instances are rare. A bite from the host is the most likely and common way for an animal or person to contract rabies. The infected saliva travels through the nerves and spinal cord towards the brain. The virus then incubates in the body for 3 to 8 weeks (depending on species), with no symptoms of the disease present. Once the brain is infected by rabies, the virus multiplies and spreads to the salivary glands and the symptoms of rabies appear.

Symptoms of Rabies:

Rabies symptoms tend to vary, so affected dogs may not show all the signs. Initial signs include behavior and personality changes, fearfulness, anxiety, shyness, withdrawal from people and other animals, and licking the site of the original bite wound. Signs progress to restlessness, agitation and overreaction to sights and sounds. These lead to to full-blown aggression, then disorientation followed by seizures. Dogs may also experience paralysis in the head and neck area. This causes inability to swallow, resulting in excess salivation, or "foaming at the mouth," and respiratory distress. Sadly, death soon follows.

Diagnosing Rabies:

The only way to definitively diagnose rabies in dogs is through a direct fluorescent antibody test (dFAT) using samples of brain tissue that can only be obtained after death. In humans, multiple extensive tests can be run with samples of saliva, blood, hair and skin, but these are not absolute, nor are they available for animals. Diagnosis in living animals is presumptive and based upon clinical signs and patient history. In pets that have been exposed to rabies, a quarantine period may be necessary to watch for signs of the disease, particularly in unvaccinated pets. Those no vaccine history are usually euthanized.

Rabies Treatment:

Unfortunately, there is no cure or effective treatment for rabies. Animals with obvious and advanced signs of rabies must be euthanized. This is to avoid unnecessary suffering in the animal and to prevent further transmission of the disease to humans and other animals. Humans exposed to rabies need to undergo a regimen called postexposure prophylaxis (PEP), a series of injections that include immune globulin and rabies vaccine. However, PEP is not affective in humans after symptoms are noted. As with animals, rabies is almost always fatal once the signs appear. Supportive care is the only option at this point.

Preventing Rabies:

Prevention is key when it comes to rabies. Fortunately, it is also quite simple. First and foremost, dogs and other pets should receive routine rabies vaccines. The rabies vaccine is giving yearly to dogs,cat, rabbits and other warm blooded animals. Rabies vaccines are also available for humans, though the protocol is more complicated. Therefore, the vaccine is typically only given to people who work with pets or wildlife, or those who travel to areas with high exposure risk. However, people who have received the vaccine with still need PEP after exposure to rabies.
Next to vaccination, minimizing exposure is the best way to prevent rabies. Do not allow your dog to roam out of your sight, especially in wooded areas where wild animal encounters are more common. Keep your dog on a leash, and avoid interactions with unknown animals. If your dog does get an animal bite, see your vet right away.
Preventing rabies in humans is equally important. Learn about dog bite prevention and teach your children how to be cautious. Bites to humans should be addressed immediately by a physician.
If a bite occurs, try your best to obtain as much information as possible about the offending animal, whether the bite victim is a pet or a human. If the biter was someone's pet, get their contact information and find out about the vaccine history and possible past exposure to rabies. If it was a wild animal, you may not be able to find out much unless that wild animal is dead. Either way, local authorities should be notified of the situation.
Despite how deadly and dangerous the rabies virus is, fortunately it is easily preventable. Remember: vaccinate your pets, minimize their exposure and yours. Arm yourself with knowledge to keep your whole family safe - pets and humans alike.

Rabies on rise

The Healthcare and Nutrition Ministry focused special attention on the need to eliminate hydrophobia, commonly known as rabies from Sri Lanka, considering the record number of over 400,000 patients reported from many parts of the country. According to Health Department statistics about 28 deaths due to rabies were reported from various districts during the first six months of this year.
It is also reported that many more persons afflicted with hydrophobia, who live in very remote areas and had not sought treatment from Government hospitals would have died during this period. Statistics also revealed that there are nearly 600,000 domesticated dogs are in the country at present while the area health authorities have already given the anti-rabies vaccination to nearly 55,000 stray dogs islandwide.
Speaking to the Sunday Observer , Public Health and Veterinary Health Service Director Dr. P. A. L Harischandra highlighted that a sum of Rs. 500 million is spent by the Government on anti-rabies campaign every year.
Meanwhile, a senior Health Department official said that over 65,000 female dogs have been sterilised by area health authorities in order to reduce their population.
"It is the duty of the dog owners to look after their pets carefully by giving vaccinations in time; similarly the area public health authorities should keep vigil on stray dogs," he said.
Meanwhile, the Healthcare and Nutrition Ministry while urging the public to be vigilant on their own dogs as well as stray dogs who are roaming around, also request them to extend their co-operation to make the Government's `Rabies-Free Society Program' a success by the year 2016.
by Ananda KANNANGARA from Sunday Observer

How to get a dog to stop eating dirt?

If your dog is eating dirt, there might be a nutritional deficiency, a poor diet, a behavioral issue, or even parasites. You will need to talk to your vet and do some home detective work to try and work out the cause. This article sets out some suggested avenues to pursue.

Steps

1. Target the problem. Eating inappropriate substances is called pica. A dog may eat dirt because his/her diet is poor so they eat dirt to get the nutrients they need. Most chain grocery and department stores, where many people purchase pet food, often stock low-quality products. Read labels, look for natural ingredients with minimal additives, and talk to your vet about your pet's dietary needs.
2. Visit your vet. Pica can sometimes be caused by diseases of the nervous system such as rabies or neurotoxin exposure. Anemia, hypothyroidism, certain diseases of the liver, pancreas and gastrointestinal systems, nutritional problems, and foreign bodies may cause it as well.
3. Treat the parasites. Pica can create a vicious cycle of infecting your dog with intestinal parasites or worms such as hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms found in contaminated soil. Soil is contaminated by the urine or feces of another animal with parasites. The parasites consume nutrients causing the dog to seek more sources of food, including inappropriate items such as soil that introduces additional parasites. If your dog has lost weight, coat sheen , is shedding out of season, constantly hungry - these can be signs of parasite infestation.
4. Treat the behavior. If no disease is found, pica is considered a behavioral problem. It may be associated with obsessive-compulsive disorder. Pica may also be caused by boredom. The veterinarian may prescribe anti-depressive drugs.
5. Supervise at all times. Walk your dog on a leash. Move house plants out of access. Cover the exposed soil of outdoor potted plants or use a commercial "dog away" substance. If you can't supervise your dog, crate train it and keep it indoors. It's a lot safer than being outdoors anyway. Changing the taste of the soil by spraying with a compound such as red pepper sauce or bitter-tasting substances, which are available in pet stores, may discourage dogs from eating inappropriate things.
6. Put behavioral change actions in place. Use a spray bottle (filled with water) and squirt your dog every time it eats dirt, if the dog is unaffected, use super cold water. Never use scalding hot water as this may not only melt the bottle, but will hurt the dog. Cold water is annoying, scalding water is cruel. Clickers and mild shock collars may also work. Don't reward the dog for not eating dirt - they don't understand.
7. Seek expert help. Go to your local vet or dog trainer and make an appointment. I suggest going to a vet first because if it is in fact a nutrition problem, parasites, or disease, they'll be more sure of it. Take a fresh fecal sample with you for parasite testing.

Tips

• Talk to your vet.
• Don't reward your dog for not eating dirt. It won't relate the treat to something it didn't do.
• Try feeding it more.
• Get it a vitamin supplement.
• Worm your dog.

Warnings

• Scolding your dog will not work. They are not doing this to annoy you, but due to an underlying cause.
• Eating dirt may make your dog sick, as soil may contain parasites, high levels of pesticides or herbicides, or rocks that can become lodged in their intestines. It's best to get this problem taken care of as soon as possible.
• Eating dirt is a symptom. You need to find out the reason and treat it.

How to wash a dog?

Does your dog stink, or is constantly scratching? Here are some tips for washing your dog. Having a regular bath time is important from puppy-age up. Your dog may resist at first, but soon he or she will look forward to bath time. 

Prepare your workspace first Gather all the items you will need, towels, dog shampoo, dog conditioner (if needed)and sponge and lay it out so it's close at hand when needed but not in the way of getting kicked and splashed by the dog. Find the dog(and a volunteer to help you if you can find one).

1. Brush the dog's coat through. This is a good time to inspect for any skin/coat/health issues while relaxing and showing your dog some love. If you spot any ticks, you may want to see a vet to get it removed.(You have to use tick control remedy to remove ticks even-though u see only one).
2. Decide if the scratching is from parasites, allergies, or simple skin irritation.If the dog having skin rash,loosing fur very high amount,scratching whole body even after bath,or some red patches on lower abdomen, please consult a vet near to your place.
3. Get your dog's coat nice and wet, then apply the shampoo. Do this from the top down, first for his back, then gently scrubbing down to his tail and below, his rear legs, his belly and chest, and then his neck. Make sure to rub shampoo into all of his creases, or rolls, like under his front legs and neck. Rinse thoroughly.Then select good soap or shampoo or wash with baby soap.
4. Now you are ready to wash his head and face. (If your dog shampoo is not marked "will not sting eyes," Get a warm damp flannel and gently rub his face and under his chin. Use very warm water, since this is an area where eye secretions and food can generate much of a dog's odor. Make sure you DO NOT get shampoo in your dogs eyes, nose, ears, or mouth.
   • Inside ears is a favorite hiding place for fleas, but breeds with big ears (Shih-tzu, Bloodhound, and etc.) are prone to infections if their ears are wet inside. For them, wash inside only with a slightly damp washcloth.
5. Keep the shampoo on your dog for as long as the bottle calls for.
6. Rinse your dog until the water from his fur runs clear, and then rinse one more time. If your dog shies from rinsing his face, use your hand to bring water from the faucet to his face repeatedly to rinse. You can also use a wet washcloth and wash off the water with small circles.
7. Get a small or big towel, lay it over your dog's back, and rub your dog dry; make sure you dry the inside of his ears also.You can use tick controller after bath,it is important because it help your pet to get rid of ticks.then you can use a hair dryer and dog brush to dry and brush your dog. Dogs love this part of a bath!
   • You may also want to spray some doggie perfume on your dog. You can get this at your regular dog store. Be careful with the perfume, some dogs may be allergic so consult your vet or a professional groomer before you use it on your dog.
   • For dogs prone to ear infections, use 2 drops of a vet-supplied rinse that will help dry the ears.
   • A dog is not washed properly until the hairs inside his ears have been pulled out; this is especially true of dogs prone to ear infections. (Your vet or commercial dog groomer does this and will be happy to show you how to do it.)

 Tips

• Almost all dogs try to resist a bath at first. Soon they come to really enjoy it, though some will tolerate but will still not enjoy the bath. The key is to make it a time to talk and interact with your dog as you give him or her a bath, rewarding with treats and scratches. Soon your dog will realize that the bath gets rid of that smell. People aren't the only ones who don't like smelling bad, dogs hate smelling bad too.
• There are suction cups that work for medium and small breeds that help control the dog. Sometimes you can use the leash to tie the dog to the spigot if it is bigger. If you are outside you will want to tie your dog to a post or a sign.
• After a bath, give your dog a treat, rewarding him or her for cooperating in the bath.
• Start with the dog's head first... this way the dirt runs onto the body part that is washed next instead of cleaning the body and then getting it dirty again. Start from the top and work down.
• If it is a rather large dog you may prefer washing the dog outside with a hose.
• Brush your dog after the wash to straighten out the fur after the shampoo.

Technique for dogs that have hair and not fur

• Brush the dog before you wash it, this will remove foreign particles and knots/matted hair.

• When applying shampoo do not work it back and forth like you would do with the hair on your head, this contributes to matting and knotting. Wet the dog down (as described above stay focused on the areas you are working on and don't squirt soap all over the dog) and apply the soap to the area then 'stroke' it into the hair. Continue stroking it in until it lathers, let stand per shampoo directions, then rinse area till water is clear.

• When drying the dog don't rub the towel this will create new knots. Continue using the 'stroking', squeezing the hair, and patting methods for best results.

• You can microwave the towel for a minute to warm it up if the ambient temperature in the room is too cool. The dog will thank you and sit tight while you dry.

• Pay special attention to the dogs anal and groin areas to be sure they are clean and clear of hair. If necessary carefully trim that hair so the dog can cleanly go to the bathroom.

• Brush the dogs teeth! Have your vet show you the technique.

• Brushing the dog weekly will reduce the need to wash it, but if the dog continues to smell or has 'things' in the hair/fur a bath may be necessary.

• When scratching and playing with your dog carefully handle their ears, paws, tail, and face/teeth. This will let the dog get used to being handled. Your vet and groomer will thank you and it will let the dog be more comfortable and less stressed!

• Ask your vet for advise and things to look for when washing your dog. There may be breed and size specific items that should be kept in mind.

 Warnings

• Make sure to read all directions and warnings on the shampoo bottle before using it on your dog.
• If your dog develops a rash, or any other sign of an allergic reaction, contact your veterinarian immediately.
• Never put shampoo in the dog's ears unless specifically instructed to by a vet. There are concoctions made for the ears to clean them if need be. You can block the ear canal with a large cotton ball, but never put anything pointed like a cotton swab in the ear, as you could puncture the ear drum.
• Make sure to use some form of shampoo especially made for dogs, and not stuff that you just used to do your own hair, it may cause the dog a serious medical condition.

Mange in Rabbits

Rabbits that become afflicted with mange are actually being preyed upon by sarcoptic mites that burrow into the skin, most commonly around the ears, nose and mouth. If left untreated, the condition causes the rabbit to become very itchy and uncomfortable, and white, crusty lesions that produce a foul odor will begin to appear around the rabbit's head. Luckily, the condition is easily treatable with the proper veterinary care.
There are three different types of mange in rabbits. All are caused by mites, which are arachnids, like spiders. They vary in their degree of severity. All three types of mange are diagnosed by the same tests and treated similarly.

Sarcoptic Mange

• Sarcoptic mange is extremely itchy. begging rascally rabbit image by Rheamy Higgins from Fotolia.com

  Sarcoptic mange is what most people mean when they use the term mange. It's caused by Sarcoptes scabiei, a burrowing mite. The female mite tunnels into the skin to lay her eggs. Sarcoptic mange first appears on ear edges, lips and nose, then spreads to other areas of the body.

Ear Mange

• In advanced cases of Psoroptes, the affected ear will fall down. wilson image by Chris Hart from Fotolia.com

  Ear mange is caused by Psoroptes cuniculi, which lives inside the ear. It can affect one or both ears, with crusts forming deep in the ear canal. An infested rabbit will shake his head and scratch his ears violently. It's extremely painful.

Fur Mange

• Cheyletiella mites can infest dogs, cats and, temporarily, humans. Rabbit image by Warren Millar from Fotolia.com

  Mange caused by the Cheyletiella mite is called "walking dandruff" because when you look closely at the flakes on the skin, you can see them move. This mange may present with few clinical signs beyond skin flakes, itchiness and minor hair loss.

Instructions

Things You'll Need

1. • Take the rabbit to a veterinarian as soon as you notice signs of a parasitic infection, like excessive itching, hair loss or dry, scaly skin. The vet will typically perform a skin scrape right away to determine under a microscope the exact kind of mite that is present. Mange is a condition caused by untreated mite infestation.
   • Ask your veterinarian about medicinal injections that can help kill the mites infecting your rabbit. The drug most commonly used to treat a range of skin problems in small mammals, including those caused by mites, is called Ivermectin, which is given via injection by the veterinarian.
   • Clean the rabbit's habitat thoroughly with warm water and dishwashing liquid every day until the rabbit is completely cured of the mite infestation. Changing the bedding daily will help prevent mites that drop off during treatment from breeding and causing a recurrence of symptoms.
   • Keep the rabbit's stress levels low after the infestation clears up to help prevent a recurrence. Small pets are more susceptible to disease and parasitic attack when they are stressed. Providing the rabbit with a clean and roomy habitat, a proper diet and plenty of exercise will help keep it healthy throughout its lifespan.

Common Ticks

Although ticks are commonly thought of as insects, they are actually arachnids like scorpions, spiders and mites. All members of this group have four pairs of legs as adults and have no antennae. Adult insects have three pairs of legs and one pair of antennae. Ticks are among the most efficient carriers of disease because they attach firmly when sucking blood, feed slowly and may go unnoticed for a considerable time while feeding. Ticks take several days to complete feeding.
Ticks have four life stages: egg, six-legged larva, eight-legged nymph and adult. After the egg hatches, the tiny larva (sometimes called a “seed tick”) feeds on an appropriate host. The larva then develops (molts) into the larger nymph. The nymph feeds on a host and then molts into an even larger adult. Both male and female adults find and feed on a host, then the females lay eggs sometime after feeding.
Ticks wait for host animals from the tips of grasses and shrubs (not from trees). When brushed by a moving animal or person, they quickly let go of the vegetation and climb onto the host. Ticks can only crawl; they cannot fly or jump. Ticks found on the scalp have usually crawled there from lower parts of the body. Some species of ticks will crawl several feet toward a host. Ticks can be active on winter days when the ground temperatures are about 45^o Fahrenheit.
There are two groups of ticks, sometimes called the “hard” ticks and “soft” ticks. Hard ticks, like the common dog tick, have a hard shield just behind the mouthparts (sometimes incorrectly called the “head”); unfed hard ticks are shaped like a flat seed. Soft ticks do not have the hard shield and they are shaped like a large raisin. Soft ticks prefer to feed on birds or bats and are seldom encountered unless these animals are nesting or roosting in an occupied building.
Although at least 15 species of ticks occur in Illinois, only a few of these ticks are likely to be encountered by people: American dog tick, lone star tick, blacklegged (deer) tick, brown dog tick and winter tick.
American Dog Tick (Dermacentor variabilis)
One of the most frequently encountered ticks is the American dog tick, also sometimes known as the wood tick. The larvae and nymphs feed on small warm-blooded animals such as mice and birds. The adult American dog tick will feed on humans and medium to large mammals such as raccoons and dogs.
Unfed males and females are reddish-brown and about 3/16-inch long. Females have a large silver-colored spot behind the head and will become ½-inch long after feeding or about the size of a small grape. Males have fine silver lines on the back and do not get much larger after feeding. Males are sometimes mistaken for other species of ticks because they appear so different from the female.
In Illinois, the adults are most active in April, May and June. By September, the adults are inactive and are rarely observed. The American dog tick can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, tularemia and possibly ehrlichiosis to humans.

Lone Star Tick (Amblyomma americanum)
The lone star tick is primarily found in the southern half of Illinois, although it can occasionally be found further north. Larvae, nymphs and adults will feed on a variety of warm-blooded hosts, including people. The larva is very tiny, only a little larger than the period at the end of this sentence. The nymph, the most common stage found on people, is about pinhead-sized. Adults are about 1/8-inch long and brown. The adult female has a white spot in the middle of her back. Because they are so similar in size, the lone star tick is sometimes misidentified by laypersons as the blacklegged / deer tick (see below).
The lone star tick is most active from April through the end of July. Although it can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, the lone star tick is not as likely to transmit the disease as the American dog tick. This tick also may transmit tularemia and ehrlichiosis to humans. The lone star tick is not believed to transmit the bacteria that causes Lyme disease (Borrelia burgdorferi), but may be associated with a related bacteria species that has not been completely identified.

Blacklegged Tick, also known as the Deer Tick (Ixodes scapularis)
All three active stages of the blacklegged / deer tick will feed on a variety of hosts including people. After the eggs hatch in the spring, the very tiny larvae feed primarily on white-footed mice or other small mammals. The following spring, the larvae molt into pinhead-sized, brown nymphs that will feed on mice, larger warm-blooded animals and people. In the fall, they molt into adults that feed primarily on deer, with the females laying eggs the following spring. Adults are reddish-brown and about 1/8-inch long (or about one-half the size of the more familiar female American dog tick).
These ticks are found in wooded areas along trails. The larvae and nymphs are active in the spring and early summer; adults may be active in both the spring and fall. The blacklegged / deer tick can transmit Lyme disease and possibly ehrlichiosis to humans.
The deer tick has been found sporadically in many Illinois counties. However, in recent years it has been common only in limited areas, mostly in northern Illinois (Geographic distribution by county). Additionally, Illinois residents may encounter the deer tick during trips to Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin or the northeastern United States where it is very common in some areas.

Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus)
The brown dog tick (also known as the kennel tick) is found through most of the United States This tick feeds on dogs, but rarely bites people. Unlike the other species of ticks, its life cycle allows it to survive and develop indoors. The brown dog tick is found primarily in kennels or homes with dogs where it may be found hiding in cracks, behind radiators, under rugs and furniture, and on draperies and walls.
The adult is reddish-brown and about 1/8-inch long, and usually attaches around the ears or between the toes of a dog to feed. After feeding, a female may engorge to ½-inch long. She then drops off the dog and crawls into a hiding place where she may lay as many as 3,000 eggs. This tick is tropical in origin and does not survive Illinois winters outdoors. The brown dog tick is not an important carrier of human disease.
Winter Tick (Dermacentor albipictus)
The winter tick is a species that feeds on large mammals like deer, cattle and horses. Unlike the hard ticks mentioned above, the winter tick attaches to the host as a larva and remains attached throughout its life. Consequently, this tick is rarely encountered by campers or hikers. However, hunters may find the winter tick in large numbers on deer carcasses. Although the winter tick may carry diseases of large wild mammals, it is not known to transmit disease to humans.

Transmissible Venereal Tumor (TvT)-Dogs don’t wear contraceptives

Imagine a tumor that can be transmitted by touch. For dogs, this is not a matter of imagination; the Transmissible Venereal Tumor has been described since 1876 and is commonly found on both male and female dogs. Transmission is by simple physical contact between an existing tumor on one dog and abraded skin on another. It is most commonly spread during mating but can also be spread during routine sniffing or other contact. In most cases, tumor growth is found on the genitals but it can also just as easily emerge on noses, mouths, anal areas, and other anatomical sites.
The Transmissible Venereal Tumor, affectionately known as the TVT, may be visible as an external fleshy growth or may simply present as genital bleeding (eventually the tumor will become eroded on the surface and bleed). The tumor is common where there are large numbers of roaming dogs or in shelter situations. In most cases the tumor is not malignant and simply grows and bleeds at a local site eventually being rejected by the patient’s immune system; however, if the patient is immune-suppressed due to very young age or poor general health then the tumor can indeed spread in a cancerous fashion. Because there is potential for tumor spread within the body, treatment is recommended to regress the tumor rather than simply waiting it out.
Strangely, the tumor cells are not the patient’s own cells transformed into cancer cells. This is not a matter of a virus being transmitted which causes normal cells to become cancerous. The TVT is actually a tumor that grafts itself from one dog's body onto another dog's body. Unlike the host's normal cells, TVT cells have a completely different number of chromosomes do not at all originate from the host. Developing a TVT might analogous to getting bitten by a mosquito and the few mosquito cells left behind actually trying to grow a new mosquito on one’s body.

In this cell sample, the small round cells are red blood cells. The large blue-purple cells are TVT cells.

Diagnosis is made either by biopsy (taking a small piece of tumor tissue for analysis) or by cytology (obtaining a smear of the tumor’s cells and looking at it under a microscope as shown above). The tumor is classified as a “Round Cell Tumor” and is related to more malignant Round cell tumors such as the Mast Cell Tumor and Lymphoma.

TREATMENT

Treatment of the Transmissible Venereal Tumor is straightforward and generally very rewarding:

• SURGERY:
  Surgery is not as effective as one would expect. In one study of 70 dogs, 22% had recurrence within 5 months. If a tumor is surgically removed and found to be a Transmissible Veneral Tumor, one of the other treatment methods should ensue.
   
• VINCRISTINE:
  Vincristine is a chemotherapy agent which must be delivered intravenously. Special IV catheters or butterfly units are placed to deliver the drug as any spillage of the drug into the tissue surrounding the vein results in a painful tissue slough (i.e. a chemical burn occurs). This, however, is the only serious risk in this treatment and as long as proper IV materials are used this complication is rare. The TVT responds after only one treatment or two but generally 3-6 weekly treatments are administered to ensure a cure.
   
• DOXORUBICIN
  Doxorubicin, also called Adriamycin, is another chemotherapy agent that must be given intravenously. It is a bit more intensive in its chemotherapeutic properties compared to vincristine but if vincristine is ineffective or yields only partial results, doxorubicin may be used to complete therapy.
   
• RADIATION:
  External beam radiation is very effective in curing the TVT but is very expensive and not readily available. If one is near a facility, however, this may be a good option.
   

	"Fanny Mae" looks to be about 10 years old and lives behind the Thong Sala market in Thailand. Her sweet nature has managed to earn her enough food to survive this long, but the tumor growing from her vagina would eventually take her life if left untreated.
	These pictures indicate decrease in mass after only 2 treatments of Vincristine Fannie Mae was cared for by a special group called PhaNgan Animal Care. For more information on their work visit: web site

How to Get Your Dog to Swallow Medicine

 Here is a helpful guide on how to get your dog to swallow medicine that are liquids and tablet.
Liquids. Whenever liquids are to be given, you should always re - member that if certain of them enter the lungs they can be very dangerous. The first question you should ask yourself is, "What would happen if the dog inhaled some?"
Pure water solutions of quickly soluble drugs are least dangerous .Hydrogen peroxide turns to water and oxygen when it decomposes in the fizzing effect known to everyone. On the other hand, milk, which is sometimes used as a base or vehicle for drugs, contains solids. Fat is one of them, and fat in the lungs is especially dangerous. If the drug used is harmless if it gets into the lungs - that is, if it is a water solution - it is fairly safe to fill the dog's mouth and throat and force swallowing. If sonic of the medicine trickles down the windpipe, the only unfortunate thing that can happen is a blast of the medicine in your face or on your coat sleeve when the patient coughs. But when a solution dangerous to the lungs is to be administered, it's best to give a little at a time.In either event there are two practical ways of giving a liquid medicine: the lip - pocket method and by stomach tube. Let's see how and when each of these is used.
THE LIP - POCKET METHOD: Although an experienced person can accomplish this alone, you will probably find that two people are necessary for satisfactory results. Place the dog on a table broadside to you. Make it sit. Tilt its head back so that it is looking at the ceiling.With your right hand hold the chin in this position. Slide the fingers of your left hand under its lip, push back, and catch hold of the angle where the lower and upper lips join. Pull this out and upward. Now you have a cup or pocket which will hold a considerable amount. While you hold the patient thus, your assistant pours the medicine or liquid food in. As it runs between the teeth and onto the back of the tongue, the dog will swallow it. When this is gone, pour more in until the whole dose is given. A word of caution: the assistant should stand out of the line of fire, for if the dog coughs, he or she is liable to be thoroughly sprayed.
If an especially resistant pup is being dosed, the assistant has another duty. With one hand he or she holds both front paws firmly so that the dog can't pull them loose and with the other hand pours the medicine into the lip pocket.
THE STOMACH - TUBE METHOD: What seems a great task is in reality simple and safe method if two people cooperate to dose an dog. Apiece of rubber tubing, one eighth inch inside diameter and twelve to eighteen inches long, depending upon the size of the dog, is large enough for a dog. You can get both the tube and a bulb syringe either glass or rubber will do at your pharmacy. The syringe should be filled with the medicine and left within reacts. When you are ready to insert the tube, hold the dog as described above with the head straight up.As the tube is pushed over the back of the tongue into the throat, the patient will gulp and swallow it down. If it has been moistened, it will slide down the esophagus with reasonable ease.
There is one danger to guard against. You most be extremely careful not to get the tube into the windpipe, for if fluids are administered down the tube into the lungs by mistake, the results may be tragic. By holding the upper end of the tube close to your ear, you can tell whether the other end is in the windpipe by the sound of air rushing inland out of the tube with each respiration. If the tube has entered the esophagus properly, you will not hear any sound at all. Feeling the throat is another method of being sure where the tube is. The windpipes in front and closest to the skin, and in dog that are not too fat you should have no difficulty in feeling the tube in the esophagus behind it.
When you are certain that the tube is where it should be, have your assistant who needs both hands for the job connect the syringe to the tube and administer the medicine or liquid food down the tube. In mature dog the stomach tube may be left in for several minutes without causing discomfort; the dog goes right on breathing normally.
This stomach - tube method is particularly useful in feeding tiny pup - pies that are too cold or too weak to nurse. Many pets are saved by using this premature human infant stomachs tube. It is a quick way of feeding an done that is most useful in supplementing an inadequate maternal milk supply. To be sure, you most always be certain that the tube is in the esophagus, but that is not hard to determine once you have done it few times. When you consider that we have reared hundreds of litters of puppies experimentally in this fashion, it is easy to see that one person who passes a tube on a litter of eight, 5 times a day, or a total of28o times a week, must not experience too much difficulty.It is very unsuccessful to squirt a drug into your dog's mouth, snap it shut, and expect the dog to swallow it. Most of the solutions runs out. The dog shakes its head and the administration is a failure. You can sometimes overcome your pet's dislike for some drugs by disguising them in sweet syrups thinned down. Glucose (dextrose) is often administered to advantage to sick dog, but if given in the form of corn syrup or honey it is difficult to pour. It must be thinned. If any sweet substance is given carefully and without a struggle, the subsequent dosages will be simpler and dogs in particular can often be trained to open their mouths and take it without a fuss. We have seen many that soon were willing to lick the syrup from a spoon.
Pills and Capsules. It doesn't require sleight of hand to get a pill or capsule down the throat of a dog, evens when the pet resists. It's all in knowing how. Opening the dog's mouth, dropping in the medicine,closing its mouths, and rubbing the throat may work now and again, butt's not a sure enough method to rely on.
With the left hand (if you're right - handed) grasp the top of the dog's muzzle and pull its head upward. Squeeze the thumb on one side and the fingers on the other, thereby pushing the lips over the teeth and partly opening the mouth. The dog won't close its mouth because to do so it will have to bite its lips. With your right hand pickup the pill or capsule between the thumb and first or second finger and with the little finger pull down the lower jaw. Hold it open with the side of the little finger and drop the pill as far back on the tongue as possible. With your forefinger, or with the forefinger and second finger,push the pill gently but quickly as far back into the throat as you can.Then withdraw your hand quickly, let the mouth close and hold it together until the dog sticks out its tongue in the act of swallowing .Several pills and capsules may be poked down in this way at one time.Some capsules contain bitter or irritating drugs. If a dog bites them they may cause fright, suffocation, and a taste so obnoxious that the dog will try for many minutes to cough or scratch it out. If you are giving your pet medicine of this sort, you will want to be certain that no capsules are dropped between the teeth or insufficiently pushed down the throat.
Short - nosed breeds, such as Boston Terriers, Boxers, English Bull - dogs, and Bull mastiffs, have such fat tongues and restricted throats that laymen frequently have difficulty in properly medicating them. When wet, the pills or capsules become slippery and slide around sideways over the back of the broad tongue. It is wise never to try to give wet pills, especially wet capsules. If you are unsuccessful in the first attempt to give the medicine, take the capsule out and dry it. It will often stick to your finger just enough to enable you to pilot it into the back of the throat properly. Sometimes two fingers can keep it from sliding side - ways, and on large dogs evens three fingers may work well.
There are other effective methods you may prefer in the administration of pills, tablets, and capsules. Some may appeal to you. You may have noticed how when offered a tidbit of food dogs smell it, pick it up gingerly, chew, and swallow it. If it is to their liking, most gulp the second and subsequent morsels. With this in mind, prepare three units of, say, peanut butter, cheese, or liverwurst on crackers. Place the capsule or tablet under the chosen goodie on the second cracker. Give the dog cracker number one, which will be checked out thoroughly, then give the second cracker with the medication and immediately show the third tidbit. The dog will often gulp the second to get the third.
The advantage of using crackers with goodies lies in the fact that while crunching a cracker the dog is not apt to notice the pill if it scrunched at the same time.
The next method concerns candy and this brings to mind the fact that many pet owners tell us their dogs have never tasted candy. Al - though many people eat candy themselves they believe it is somehow unhealthy for dogs. You can feed Kao percent corn syrup to puppies irons weaning until they were two years old to try to produce cavities. We produced no cavities and that litter of six were as healthy as any pup - pies could be. Sweets in moderation cannot harm a dog.

Hiding a pill or capsule or tablet in a soft - centered chocolate candy is a simple and good way to administer it. Once again, use three candies;the second one offered should have the medication. There is another method using candy wherein the dog must be "pre - fooled" before it starts taking the medication. As a treat, toss the dog broken pieces of Life Savers every now and then. When the time comes that the dog needs medication, toss the pill or tablet along with a few pieces of LifeSavers on the floor. Most dogs will pick up the pill or tablet along with the sweets.
One of our favorite methods of administering solid medications is in marshmallows. Leave a few exposed to the air for a few hours until they become tough on the outside, then insert the medications in one of three. Once again, give one without the medication first. Gumdrops,raw hamburger, meatballs, and soft cheese are other ways favored by pet owners.

Liquid medicine when not given by the lip - pouch method presents perhaps a greater challenge. It may work to combine it with honey or corn or maple syrup and pour the mixture on a piece of bread, handsome find an ice - cream sundae with the liquid medicine as the topping - poured over it as a sauce works, too.
With a little knowledge of your pet's likes and dislikes and a little ingenuity you should be able to outwit it. You still have the more forceful methods previously described.

Dog rabies control

More than 3 billion people, about half the world’s population, are living in countries/territories where dog rabies still exists and are potentially exposed to rabies. It is estimated that at least 55 000 human rabies deaths occur yearly in Africa and Asia following contact with rabid dogs.

Success story Latin America:

- Urugay became rabies free in 1983.

- Chile succeeded to eliminate dog rabies.

- During the past 20 years, the number of human and canine rabies cases in the Region has declined by nearly 90%.

In many countries of those countries, few activities are underway to prevent rabies occurrence in humans and to control rabies in dogs, even when the number of human deaths is high. This is the case in, for example, Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Laos, Nepal, and Pakistan in Asia, as well as most African, east Mediterranean, and Arabic peninsular countries. On the other hand, some countries report having improved their post-exposure treatment delivery systems in conjunction with significant activities for dog rabies control. In some countries these activities have led to a sustainable reduction in dog rabies as previously reported for Thailand, as well as South Africa, Iran, and especially in some Latin American countries (see box). In other countries (e.g., Morocco, Sri Lanka, and Tunisia) these activities have led to containment of the rabies situation. WHO promotes activities for the control and elimination of dog rabies particularly in Asia and Africa. A number of WHO documents dealing with the various aspects of a comprehensive dog rabies control programme have been developed over time.

Controlling rabies in dogs: what to do - what to avoid doing?

Further to recent reports indicating that indiscriminate mass culling of dogs is still used in certain countries as the principal measure to combat dog rabies and prevent associated human rabies the WHO wishes to reiterate the recommendations of the Expert Consultation on Rabies held in Geneva, October 2004 (TRS 931, WHO 2005):

• Dog destruction alone is not effective in rabies control. There is no evidence that removal of dogs alone has ever had a significant impact on dog population densities or the spread of rabies. In addition, dog removal may be unacceptable to local communities. However, the targeted and humane removal of unvaccinated, ownerless dogs may be effective when used as a supplementary measure to mass vaccination.
• Mass canine vaccination campaigns have been the most effective measure for controlling canine rabies. High vaccination coverage (70% or higher) can be attained through comprehensive strategies consisting among others of well-designed educational campaigns, intersectoral cooperation, community participation, local commitment in planning and execution.
• Surveillance of rabies is the basis for any programme of rabies control. Veterinary surveillance of rabies and laboratory submission of reports of suspected animal cases is also essential for management of potential human exposures and for veterinarians to adopt appropriate measures towards animals in contact with a suspected animal case.
• Efforts should be made to fully incorporate rabies control activities in all levels of the health services, aligning them with other public health programmes such as the Expanded programme on immunization and those for tuberculosis and vector-borne diseases. In this manner, synergies between programmes improve logistical use of human, material and financial resources. 

source-WHO

Why should we vaccinate our pets?

Most responsible pet owners know that it is important to take their pets into the surgery once a year for a check up and vaccination – but not everyone really appreciates the vital importance of these annual visits for the long term health of their pets.
It’s all too easy to assume that our pets are going to stay fit and healthy nowadays, and that infectious diseases such as distemper and parvovirus are things of the past, but the reality is not that straightforward. Without the protection that routine vaccinations confer on our cats and dogs, killer diseases such as parvovirus, feline enteritis and many others would still be commonplace and the outlook for our pets would be very different than it is today.
Thanks to modern vaccines, the incidence of many diseases that used to present serious threats to the health of our pets has been greatly reduced and our pets can now expect to live a long and healthy life without the shadow of diseases such as distemper, or feline leukaemia hanging over them. However this does not mean that we can afford to be complacent – far from it. As with many human diseases such as measles, the bacteria and viruses that cause these diseases will only disappear from circulation if the vast majority of the population is protected. This is the so-called ‘herd immunity’ theory and is the reason why diseases such as parvovirus are still around – not enough dogs are protected to completely eradicate the viruses from circulation, so any unprotected dogs are still at risk of falling ill.
So vaccinating your pets is not just about protecting them against diseases, it is also about protecting all of our pets together. If every single dog and cat were vaccinated regularly, there would be no more parvovirus, no more feline leukaemia and all the other diseases that we can now vaccinate against. Keeping our pets up to date with all the available vaccinations is part of responsible pet ownership and should be considered a necessity rather than a luxury.

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6 Reasons Why We Need A Pet

Pets are more than an entertainer or an accompanier, they keep you healthy and give you a better lifestyle.

Pets as your mood enhancer.

1.  They are naturally your mood enhancer –  Merely by watching the fish swim, the cat or dog play may help calm you down. When the mood changes your body automatically lowered down the cortisol (hormone associated with stress), at the same time increase the level of  serotonin (neurotransmitter produced in the brain generally for the well being of the body).
As a result: Your mood gets better, reduce your stress level.

They are like your BP manager. Petting has calming effect which helps you to ease your pain.

2.  They help to manage your BP (Blood Pressure) – Studies showed that petting your pets is a good way to reduce your BP. If you had a quarrel/ argument with your spouse, then you know who to look for.

As a result: You are likely not to be confronted by enemies such as the stroke or heart attack.

They are your loyal partner. They cheer you up.

3.  Pets help you to fight depression –  No one gives you their unconditional loves more then your pets. They are the best listener with no fight backs. They allows you to express your negative energies within yourself and always recharged you with their endless positive energies. Petting them has a calming effect that drives your blues a way besides diverting you from stressful worries.

As a result: pets is the best way to deal with depression, avoid cardiovascular diseases.

Your pet is your personal coach who reminds you it is time to exercise! Don't think that 5 minutes is enough! Keep it up!

4.  Pets help you to lower your cholesterol level - You burn some of your calories while you are playing with your pets or stroll/jog with your pets. While you are keeping them healthy you are helping yourself to become healthy too! Let them to be your exercise buddy!

As a result: improve physical fitness, decrease LDL (bad cholesterol level low-density lipoprotein) and increase HDL (high-density lipoprotein the good cholesterol),  avoid cardiovascular diseases, avoid arthritis.

They make you want to socialize and make more new friends.

5.  Pets encourage interactions and socialization – Pet owner tends to talk to the other pet owner thus having a pet might promote socialization opportunity as it opens a conversation with a person using this shared topic.
As a result: expend your networking, staying engaged with other is a key for healthy mind, learn to socialize.

You are likely not to have allergy if you are growing up with pets.

6.  Pets helps you to keep away from allergies by strengthen your immunity - Researches found that children who grow up at home with pets are less likely to develop allergies. In fact, living with animals trigger a higher level of certain immune system chemicals which indicates a stronger immune system activation that fights allergy and thus keep the children healthy.

As a result: body is more immune to allergy

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